Tuscolano I market

antonio copertina

icona alimentareicona abbigliamentoVia Orvieto market, in San Giovanni neighborhood, is one of the historical markets of Rome. In the memories of Salvatore, one of the historical farmers, it dates back right after the war “I come since fifty years, but my father used to come before, at least for twenty years. It has changed a lot throughout the years, this used to be a rich neighborhood because a lot of tram drivers used to live around and they had a good salary, but then things have worsened and customers have grown much older”.

 

A walk through the stalls

Via Orvieto stalls cover almost all merchandising categories, from food to others, are also in a movie, as they are the set of the first movie by the videoblogger and reporter Diego Bianchi, also known as Zoro. (the title of the movie is Arance e Martello, literally Oranges and Hammer)
He actually suggests us to talk to Cristiano, the fishmonger, who in August 2013 closed his stall to leave it for the shooting. He tells us “I bought the stall from a very rich man, who used to work just to annoy others, he used to buy at 10 and sell at 8, so customers would come from all other Rome to buy his fish. He told me take my stall as they are about to move the market and I don’t want to move, but we are still here, twenty years later. I have been waiting all this time to refurbish, but then this year I really had to do it as the stall was almost falling apart”.

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Since twenty years via Orvieto market should be renovated “but then they postpone and postpone again – tells us Aldo who runs the stall together with his father Antonio, 84 years old, farmer from Fondi, who wakes up every day at 3 am and comes to the market – I started to work when I was 18 and never stopped, usually I take care of the farm, while my father sells. I am not too young any more, but looking at my father’s example I cannot complain yet”.
The market is on a downhill road, where the most ancient stalls, the farmers’ ones, are at the end, while on top of the hill there are the new generation’s ones, foreigners’, Bengalis’, Indians’. In addition to many fruit and vegetable stalls, often owned by farmers’ themselves, there are butchers, delis (Mauro, Fabio, Valerio and Sara are four cousins let by uncle Roberto), household stalls, an haberdashery, a couple of tailors, clothes, sweets.

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Among the last comers, there are two siblings, Flavia and David, who opened an haberdashery, stationery and items for children stall approximately one year ago. Their stall cannot be unnoticed as it’s colorful and full of notebooks, table mats, babywear, Peppa Pig’s handkerchiefs, markers and buttons, little shoes and rulers.
“We noticed that this kind of stall was missing, so we started – tells us Flavia – we know kids well, we work with them every day. Both my brother and I are swimming instructors: this job at the market is perfect for us: in the morning we are here and in the afternoon in the swimming pool”.

 

fabrizioThere is another interesting stall, managed by the gentle 20 years old Fabrizio. It’s called "Boni come er pane" (literally as good as bread) and Fabrizio’s bread is actually very good. It comes from different bakeries in Rome and Viterbo and there is also a wide variety of traditional biscuits: shortbread biscuits, wine ring-shaped biscuits and, at Christmas time, the typical pangiallo (literally, yellow bread) with honey. If you pass by, don’t forget to taste Nostalgia bread, made of a mix of wheat used during the second world war. For his older customers, who struggle to carry weights and for those who can’t make it to the market, Fabrizio can also deliver at home.

 

Alice’s wonderland

“I have a nanny, her name is Lyn, I have her since I was very little.
Some time ago Lyn went back to her homeland, which is called Philippines and is very far away. So Mummy had to find a temporary nanny to replace her for some time. The temporary nanny is called Rosalba, she is half a nanny half a granny and I like her very much. 

One day Mummy was telling Rosalba that we went to via Orvieto market and she told us a story. When she was a girl, like me, Rosalba used to go around many markets and even to the one in via Orvieto. She used to go around the markets not because she really liked them, as I do, but because her mum used to sell bread. It was long time ago, at a time when there was a war.
Nanny Rosalba’s mum and other ladies used to bake bread and then go around the markets to sell it. But they had to be quite careful because it was forbidden. To be honest I really thought about this after nanny Rosalba’s story and I think I figured out this thing about selling bread like a thief in the night. The only thing that I didn’t really get is why her mum used to carry the bread in a black bag, I’ll have to ask Rosalba next time I see her”.

Just around the corner

by Diego Bianchi

"When I like a movie, I also like to see the places where it was shot. Among my favorite movies, and also mentioned in “Arance e Martello” there is “Do the right thing” by Spike Lee. When I went to New York I went to Brooklyn to look for the roads where it was shot. So, the set of my movie is there: if someone enjoyed it, s/he can go to via Orvieto and look at the market with a different eye, maybe trying to find the differences between the movie and reality, or understand who inspired what.
There is also the party office… it’s sort of a perversion, but someone might be interested: it’s an historical office of the former Italian Communist Party, former Left Democratics now Democratic Party, a glorious place where many things happened. Then there is this coffee shop, also very old. Today it’s called Bar Spuntì but it has a long story, in the past there was this owner called Pubblico Lacavallo, a character of my childhood as I was born there. Of course this hints don’t mean much for a tourist, but perhaps, after watching the movie, someone might enjoy to take a walk around”.

 

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where VIA ORVIETO
open Monday – Saturday, h 7:00-14:00
Parking not easy (some works ongoing to open a new subway line)

BUS

from Termini Railway Station, Line 16